Balloons and Fireworks…

I should be celebrating, this is five months of hard work, and it is finally completed.  But I’m already onto the next adventure, so much to cram into this quarantine that doesn’t seem to be going away.  Oddly enough there are deadlines looming, pun intended, more about that later.

So we launched the last of the 12 patterns I use for my classes.  At this point, you can purchase my  patterns, all of them, on my website.  This has been a huge deal, we have never worked so hard.  It took a team, I created the content, my daughter created the layered files that actually created the patterns, and I hired a tech editor for the instructions.  The instructions are, as always available for free on my website.  There is a lot of great information in there about sewing with handwovens, but I’m really looking forward to creating YouTube videos on specific areas of support.  Like how to actually print and create the full size patterns.  

Because so many have written me and asked, and many in the handweaving community haven’t ever purchased a downloadable pattern before, I want to do a video explaining how to basically print and tape together all the sheets into a full size pattern.  Yes, you have to print them yourself.  Yes, you can have a place like Staples print the file for you.  Yes, you have to tape all the pages together.  And no, I don’t sell the printed pattern.  Only the download.  I’m even wanting to get away from printing and shipping the monographs which at the moment are available digitally and in print form.  Printing and shipping costs are ridiculous, and with the delays in the post office, I’m wanting to get away from shipping altogether.  

Anyway, huge celebration.  The last of the patterns is up.  This is the 1800 jacket which is like the 800 vest only with sleeves and waist darts.  There is a look book available here.  There aren’t a lot of images in it because the pattern is only a couple years old.  But you’ll get the general idea.  You can purchase the pattern here.

Meanwhile, my relationship with Silk City Fibers continues to grow.  I’ve always adored their yarn, and I’m getting to really play with styles I normally wouldn’t have looked at.  And really loving the possibilities.  I wrote in my last post about the yarns that they sent me, new yarns to the collection for me to explore.  So refer to the last post about what I actually used.  The fabric came out fantastic.  I called this Summer Rain, because I was weaving it during tropical storm Isaias, and lucky for me I was one of the few that never lost power. So I kept weaving.  The fabric is exactly what I envisioned.  It has been washed and dried, and is a gorgeous drapey but stable rayon, cotton, linen, and bamboo fabric that will make a great summer top.  I’m thinking I want to combine my 1000 Swing Dress with the 200 Jacket for the armholes and sleeves and make a basic top with short sleeves.  At this point, I’m having fun seeing what my patterns can produce by combining them.  

Silk City has promised me more yarn.  Oh, goodie!

Meanwhile, I finally cleared a loom that has had a bunch of my handdyed scarves on it for more than a year.  I was able to move the loom to the new studio with the warp intact, so there it sat.  I ended up netting six 2 yard scarves from a 14 yard warp.  I love these soft retro looking scarves.  They are mostly all handdyed rayons and cottons.  The weft is tencel.  Actually three of the scarves have a tencel weft, three have a bamboo weft.  It is hard to tell the difference. 

Normally these scarves would be donated to arts organizations for fundraisers and tricky trays, and whatever makes me feel like donating a scarf worth a couple hundred dollars.  I’m really careful whom I donate to.  But sadly all of the arts organizations I support have had to cancel major fundraising events this year for obvious reasons.  And even my lovely guild show and sale in November has had to move online.  So I’ll be populating my eShop with whatever scarves I have, and things like totebags from scraps, that’s my project for the next couple of weeks.  We are setting up a lightbox and photography area in one of the guest rooms.  Since I can’t have any students or guests, one of the rooms can easily become a photo area.

With that loom cleared, and more yarn from Silk City Fibers coming in the next couple of days, I’m wanting to get another warp on the loom I specifically use for these scarves.  It has to have a second beam for the 14 yards of supplemental warps.  So I looked through my huge binder of all the color forecasts I developed for Handwoven Magazine, back in the early 2000’s and picked one that appealed to me.  Mostly it appealed to me because it was called Autumn Harvest and fall is coming.  And I can’t wait.  Normally fall means I live on planes and travel and I’m not doing any of that this year.  I’m doing different things.  I have a huge amount of bookings for guild remote lectures, and some remote workshops and I’ve had to rewrite most of my prospectuses to indicate what can be done remotely.  Actually most of them so far.  You can look at what I have to offer for remote learning here.  I just have to figure out how to do some of my garment classes remotely, especially now that you can buy the patterns… 🙂 

So anyway, here is the Autumn Harvest palette drawn from a 2004 column in Handwoven Magazine, and I pulled some yarns to see if I had the right combinations. 

I just couldn’t come up with enough of the right muted dusty purple.  Everything was too blue, and I needed something softer that leaned warmer.  So I dug out the dyepots and for the first time used my new dye sink/area in the new weaving studio.  Lots of firsts here.  I did have to ask my daughter where we put stuff, but this worked remarkably well.  The sink was built high enough so I didn’t have to lean in.  It is stainless so I don’t have to worry about stains.  And I can hang skeins to dry right over the sink.  I think this color will work, if not, I’ll dye another batch.  I’ve got plenty of white yarn…  And you can purchase the 8 shaft draft I use for all my scarves here.

And the push is on because I’m booked to be the guest on the Shi Show, if you aren’t familiar with this, it is a half hour daily live show on Lion Brand Yarn’s Facebook page.  Shira is a descendent of a long line of family that owns Lion Brand Yarns.  She is young, and savvy and enthusiastic and represents the next generation of makers.  I’ll be the guest host on the September 1st episode that airs 12 noon EDT, I’ll let you know when we get closer, but I need my YouTube channel up and functioning, and the page in my eShop as well, with my lovely scarves and other items that I would have sold at the guild show and sale.  This year has been about reinventing myself in fast forward timing.  I’m doing my best.  

And speaking of my best, my daughter and I came up with a new logo for the videos I want to produce.  I’m pretty proud of this.  I designed the concept and my daughter turned the whole thing into a vector drawing in layers in Illustrator.  Everything is falling into place.

Stay tuned for more adventures of “The Weaver Sews…”

Leaving On A Jet Plane…

I came in my studio one day last week, and my assistant Cynthia was listening to a John Denver song, clearly coming out of my Echo Dot.  I asked what station she was playing and she said she had created a John Denver station on my Pandora.  We listened and laughed and sang along at the top of our lungs…  Of course, Leaving on a Jet Plane came up in the rotation.  I remembered many of the harmonies.  What fun.

Meanwhile, I’m actually leaving on a jet plane, Saturday morning, Brianna, weaver Sally Orgren from my guild, and me, we are all heading to Seattle, and then to Whidbey Island to take a weeklong advanced weaving class with Madelyn van der Hoogt.  I booked this at the end of last summer, actually right after MidWest conference, because, life is short, and none of us knows what tomorrow will bring, but I wanted my daughter to have a chance to study with Madelyn and well, I wanted to too.  Though I’m not that interested in complex structures, you sure couldn’t tell from what came out of my studio this week…

I’m on a roll.  As fast as I make something, I’m thinking about the next thing.  And oddly enough, there seems to be time to do it.  Life is beginning to run like a well oiled machine, thanks to so many people who are working behind the scenes, like Cynthia, and my handyman Rick, and the pond guys, and the plumber guys, who have done wonders cleaning up my exterior and trying to salvage the ponds and the exterior plumbing from the winter from hell.  All the pumps, outdoor lines and filters had to be replaced.  We discovered that a patch in the pond, I didn’t know it was there to begin with, failed and one of the ponds was leaking, the one where the fish survived, so they were transferred to the second pond, and everything is up and running but the pond level is very low until they can patch, but the weather has to be above 70 degrees.  Hahahahahahahah!

The website, web shop, blog, hosting company, all seems to be running well and efficiently, and super fast.  With no effort from me except a lot of money.  Isn’t that always the case…

So I get to go to the studio and make stuff.  I am so happy.  Really, this is what the goal was and now I’m there.  I start traveling heavy duty in another month, but for now, I have two back to back workshops that I’m actually taking, the other with my guild with Heather Winslow, warps are on the loom and I’m ready for that, which happens three days after I return from Whidbey Island.  

So back in June 2010, my guild did an exchange, called Potpourri, where everyone the previous fall put yarns in a brown bag and sealed it.  Brown bags were exchanged and the idea was you had to weave something with the yarns in the bag for the person whose yarns they were.  You can read the blog post about the exchange here.  

Back in April of 2010, I actually began to figure out what to do with this…  These were the yarns Sherrie had put in her bag and I had to weave something out of it.  That’s a very large cone of fine pink kid mohair.  The other two cones are unmercerized cotton.  ?!?!?!?!?

Here is the post where I figured it all out, after counting out the 100 yards of the pretty knitting yarn and knowing I wanted to highlight it.   This is the actual draft I made up. 

I have to say that I was pretty freaking proud of this, it was really out of my wheelhouse and I’m not a complex kind of person, but I figured out how to do what I did with what I had to work with and well, I patted myself on the back.  When I presented Sherrie with the yardage at the meeting in June, she didn’t seem really enthusiastic, I reread my blog post and I think her words were something like, “How Couture.”  

Many years later she came to a meeting with the bolt of fabric and said, she was cleaning things out, came across the yardage and really didn’t know what to do with it and did I want it back!  Well heck yes!  I felt bad that she really didn’t respond to it, maybe the color, size of the motifs, whatever, she is rather petite, but I stuck it on my shelf and it sat for another couple of years…

Until last week.  Bottom line is I looked at the patterns I developed for classes, played around to see what fit on the yardage, and to my complete surprise and delight, the front couple yards and back couple yards matched exactly and I was able to do this.

Getting weft patterning to line up is really really hard, and I can’t believe how effortlessly it matched.  I was not able to match the shoulders, so I added linen epaulets.  The shawl collar/band would not match up, so I got the idea to cut it on the bias.  The linen/rayon I had on my shelf warmed up the pink and created a nice detail and gave me the extra fabric I’d need to make this work.  It is my walking vest pattern, with the armhole from my Daryl Jacket C pattern, with side seam pockets and a shawl collar. 

I could not find any buttons that would work, so when all else fails, cover your own.

I finished it up last night and pulled another piece of handwoven cloth off the shelf, this one from a Diane Totten workshop on Crimp cloth.  I have a plan, and can’t wait to dive into this.  

Meanwhile, I want to give my assistant something to do while I’m gone, so I went back into the archives to the binder that has all the yarn wrapped cards from the years I wrote the color forecast column for Handwoven Magazine.  They should publish the whole series in an ebook, because there are some great resources and inspiration in there.  But I have the actual wrapped cards that they used for photography.  This one was called Down on the Farm, from the Spring/Summer 2006 forecast, published in the Sept/Oct 2005 issue of Handwoven Magazine.

Together we pulled all the yarns from my shelves that remotely went with the palette, and then from there I finalized my selections and she is busily, as I write, winding all the dyed skeins into pull balls so I can wind a warp when I get back from Seattle.  I can’t wait… 

This will be a run of handwoven scarves, and my stash of scarves is empty, the last one sent as a gift to my daughter’s pediatrician, now adult doctor, who every time Brianna goes to see him asks when he is going to get a handwoven scarf from me.  He has been asking for 25 years.  It was time…  And now I have to weave some more.

I spent the weekend up at Peters Valley school of craft, where Brianna and a team of volunteers from my local weaving guild, refurbished all the looms, I replaced 12 Macomber loom aprons, with Brianna right behind me removing and replacing as I sewed them up.  Everything looks fabulous, and Saturday night, we all went down to the store/gallery on campus for the opening of the show, Act 2: Art as a Career Sequel .   Since Art is my career, I didn’t qualify for the show, but Brianna, my lovely talented daughter who works for a vet hospital during the day, got a piece accepted, only 50 pieces were selected out of more than 600.  I adore the piece, it is from her Gender series, called The Gender Game.  The figures are woven in a summer/winter pattern with porn video tape.  It is a pretty powerful piece. 

And so, life marches on, there are some great things happening in my own little corner of the world, and I try to stay informed as is realistic, but not get too caught up in the rest of the world politics.  Election time will be soon enough.  Otherwise I’d be paralyzed from the helplessness of it all.  Spring is slowly coming, I finally have daffodils peaking out of their little heads, and I have fish swimming happily in the cleaned up ponds.  There is a pile at the curb of junk from the yard, for bulk pick up on Monday, thanks to my handyman Rick, and I’ll be flying off to Seattle to study with Madelyn soon. 

Stay tuned… 

The Day Before…

Though I’m not completely packed, I’ve worked through much of my to-do list, and I’m desperately trying to keep the two conferences separate in my head.  I leave tomorrow morning, really really early, to fly to Denver and then Durango for the Intermountain Weavers Conference.  I will teach a three day class in making a jacket, moderate the informal fashion show, and then fly home on Monday, getting in sometime Monday evening.  Then I turn around, after a quick load of laundry, and a repack, and fly to Michigan for the next conference on Tuesday morning.  So, I’m trying to juggle information coming in fast and furious, making sure everything gets into the correct conference folder, and trying to pack for two conferences at once, hoping beyond all hope I don’t make a mistake!  🙂

The 62 pound box with all the handouts, monographs, and pattern paper is off to Michigan, and we noticed the shipper misspelled the address, one more thing to worry about!  🙁

There are massive thunderstorms in the area, so I’ve powered down my main desk computer, but my little puppy runs well on batteries and wireless, so I don’t have to worry so much about a power outage, which we’ve had a couple times in the last hour already.

I wanted to try blogging from my little puppy (if you haven’t been following my blogs, I just bought a new mini EeePC Netbook.)  Before I take it on the road, I wanted to make sure everything is running smoothly, I’ve already run my presentations with the projector, I just need to download the latest versions of them from the network.

I’ve cleaned the house, partly because it was really neglected and no one else was jumping to do it, and because with just a few hours turn around next Monday, I don’t want to have to be wiping toilets and counters, and sinks.pg1a1pg1b1

I also finished re-working my design journal.  I got so close to the end that I made a huge push to finish, since I couldn’t really travel with half of two separate journals.  It was a great project, and I was able to retrieve a lot of missing information, and I think it all looks readable and fun.  The first project featured here is one from 2004, called Rising Sun.  It is a sleeveless shirt woven with  HABU Textiles‘ silk and cotton yarns, and some metallic and eyelash yarns.  I wove the fabric, which was suppose to be two scarves, to match the Southwest palette from one of my Handwoven Magazine Fashion Forecasts.  My intention was to make a scarf and send it off to the magazine, but alas, I failed to take my own advice and sample first, and the scarf came out way to dense for a scarf.  Not surprising since I am pretty good at guessing the sett for garment fabric.  And to be sure, the sett for this lovely too dense scarf, was perfect for garment fabric.  What to do? Plan B… Dive into my patterns and find something from the stash that could supplement the scarf width, and make a shirt out of it.  Which I did.  And I can assure you I got a lot more use from the sleeveless shirt than another scarf!

Just had another power hit!  Fun working on my little netbook in the dark…

Have to wait for the wireless connection to find the wireless before I load in the next two images…

pg2a1pg2b1I’m back!  Wow, was that a storm…

Anyway, I wove this 8 shaft shadow weave fabric a few years ago, but sat on it for awhile.  I needed to update the pattern I use for my jacket classes, so I took advantage of this lovely graphic fabric and made a jacket just for me called Shadow Play.   Turns out it is one of my most favorite things I’ve made, and it looks great with my very NY travel wardrobe in black.  It will go into the suitcase for the class I’m teaching this weekend.

So, before the next thunderstorm rolls in, and I get even more distracted, I’m off to pack.  Hopefully I’ll get an internet connection in Durango, and I’ll be able to blog once in awhile, the evenings are full of events, Friday night is the opening of the Fiber Celebrated exhibition, I have two pieces in that, and Saturday night, the fashion show.

Stay tuned…

Connie Crawford

What a lovely day, not only was the weather delightful, but I had the privilege of spending the day with members of various neighborhood groups of the North Jersey American Sewing Guild Chapter at their annual Spring Fling, which was held in a ballroom of a restaurant in Sussex County, NJ.  The speaker for the day was Connie Crawford, a mega sewing industry personality, who came from the fashion industry, taught Fashion Design at the Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising, and is a licensed designer for Butterick, published numerous textbooks, has a whole line of patterns, and is a terrific enthusiastic speaker.

The room was filled (around 50 people) with participants eager to find out how to fit their bodies, the actual title of the seminar was “After the Perky Body is Gone: Fitting Solutions”.  Now, I will say (and please don’t send me hate mail) that due to some genetic roll of the dice, I’ve been blessed with no fit issues, I can basically unfold any commercial pattern and with little tweaking, get it to fit,  even after a mastectomy.  But I teach this sort of stuff, and my students are demographically over 50 and now have bodies that they don’t quite know what to do with.  And I am always interested in how someone teaches, or approaches these issues.

Connie actually has her own pattern line, as well as the designs that are selected by Butterick.  I am a bit embarrassed to say I wasn’t really familiar with them.  Largely her lectures are designed around her line of patterns, which have their own sizing, and from first glance, halleluia, they actually fit real bodies.  To give you an idea, I am actually her smallest size, and she goes up from there, another 11 sizes, to a 6x, which has a 76″ hip.  I was truly impressed by the way the patterns fit the couple of fuller figured women she pulled from the audience, right out of the package.  She did a bit of tweaking, no more than I would do with a Vogue size 12, and these women, who clearly hadn’t been able to fit into any commercial pattern on the market, probably hadn’t even tried, had well fitting slopers or master patterns to build on for all kinds of great styles.  I give Connie a lot of credit for tackling this very forgotten demographic.

Connie was funny, and entertaining, but I will say, I was a bit uncomfortable with the way she dismissed much of the home sewing market, what’s being taught in fashion schools, what’s being written in books, others teaching in the fashion and sewing industries, and the way those of us who weren’t trained in the fashion industry, sew.  I think she is too good at what she does to resort to dismissing everyone else, and maybe she is right, but still, there are ways to present materials that are new or innovative without making everyone else seem invalid.

If you are fortunate enough to attend one of her seminars, be prepared to spend!  I think her books are good additions to my library, I have a number of pattern making and drafting and draping books, but not hers, and I actually did pick up a few tricks.  But her books are actually college textbooks from Fairchild, and are priced accordingly.  I did a quick check on Amazon during the lunch break, and her class discount was a lot better than the best price on Amazon, which for one of the books soared upwards of $125 for used copies.  I did buy her books, Patternmaking Made Easy and The Art of Fashion Draping, and am excited to go back and remember what I learned, way too many years ago in my pattern drafting classes in college. She  also sold her patterns, and pattern drafting supplies, she has 5 sewing DVD’s, and for most of the seminar, people were lined up with their credit cards while her husband played shopkeeper in the back of the room.

For me, it was fun to be surrounded by people that do what I love so much, I met some great new friends, and reconnected with someone who has come in and out of my life many times over the years.  That’s always a treat!

On another note, Thursday and Friday I am taking a two day workshop with Barbara Herbster, a great weaver from the New England area. Barbara did a lot of terrific work for me for the Color Forecast Column I use to write for Handwoven Magazine.   She is coming down to our guild, to teach a workshop in Supplemental Warp, and it is always fun to get together with my guild buddies and play.  BUT!  I just realized I have to clear the loom, with the remainder of the warp from last October’s two day class with Bonnie Inouye.  So, I think I know what I’m doing tonight!