Blog Entries – Page 150

The Hong Kong Seam Finish

By popular request, I am posting a tutorial on how to do the Hong Kong seam finish. If you have my monograph on Seam and Edge Finishes, you already have these directions along with all kinds of other ideas for seam finishes and ways to finish the edges of vests and jackets. (OK, that was a shameless commercial plug for my monograph…) If you buy the monograph and also purchase the companion monograph on Closures, you will save $5. and even more on postage since the computer thinks it is one item…

If you have ever taken a jacket class with me, you know what a Hong Kong seam finish is, your jacket is full of them on the inside, and you have the directions in your handout!

Before I get to the tutorial, thanks everyone, for all the birthday wishes, emailed cards, and kind words. It does my heart good to hear when a weaver gets back to the loom or even better, takes the proverbial leap into yardage! And for the sewers out there, who haven’t discovered the joy of weaving your own fabric to sew… Well, you don’t know what you’re missing! 🙂

OK, here is the Hong Kong seam finish! I love it on an unlined jacket, so professional!

First you’ll need bias strips, you can purchase them, or cut your own. There is a tutorial for cutting your own bias strips quickly, in my seams monograph. I used a 2″ strip here. If you don’t know what “bias” means, post a comment! I’ll go into more detail!

With right sides together, place the bias strip on the garment section, with the cut edges even. Stitch 1/4″ to 3/8″ from the cut edge. I use the presser foot as a guide. Just be consistent!

Press the bias strip away from the fabric.

Press the bias strip towards the wrong side of the fabric, making sure it wraps tightly around the cut edge of the garment section. This is really important, it must wrap tightly around the cut edge!

Pin securely to keep bias from shifting.

From the right side of the garment section, stitch in the ditch close to the binding. Use a color thread to match the garment fabric. (I used black for the tutorial)

The completed seam “finish”. Note, this is done on the edge of the garment section, before sewing the seam. You would repeat this step for the other half of the garment, and then sew the seams together. See first photo!

You might want to trim the excess binding from the back so it doesn’t get caught when you sew the seam.

Happy Sewing! And have a great Memorial Day Weekend, we are heading to the shore for a day this weekend, to celebrate the anniversary of scattering my dad’s ashes (he was a Korean War Veteran), and to have what would have been his most favorite meal, an old fashioned Maryland Crab Fest! (My dad’s birthday would have been on Monday, just three days after mine!) My Maryland sister, the architect, is bringing a bushel of Crabs, my other sister is bringing the beer, and I am bringing fruit to cut up, though I think that was just to give me something to bring, in an old fashioned Maryland Crab Fest, you don’t need anything but crabs and beer, and people around you that you love! And a lots of rolls of paper towels!

Special Day!

Happy Birthday to Me! I am 54 today. It is a lovely day, warm and sunny, slight breeze, I had my breakfast on the deck. I spent a couple hours this morning vacuuming all the whirligigs off the decks, my girlfriends are coming tonight with sushi and their recorders, and we will all play Baroque trios and eat sushi, and drink Margaritas and life doesn’t get any better than that. And I spent about a half hour catching up on all the drama of my son’s 19 year old life, feeling really grateful I am 54. It was lovely to just spend some time listening to his tales of adventure…

I have spent almost 50 of my 54 years living in NJ. Although I was born in PA, I’d say I pretty much qualify as a Jersey Girl. Summers down the shore, the pine barrens, and Bruce… Up until last July, I’d never been to a Bruce Springsteen concert, (he is so New Jersey), as a matter of fact, I’d never been to any rock concert except for a lone Beach Boys concert in High School. So, last night, I went to my third Bruce Springsteen concert in 9 months. This one was totally unexpected, when we purchased the tickets for the show last month in Philadelphia, we were originally trying to get tickets for last night’s performance at the Meadowlands. You may have read about the Ticket Master brouhaha, which is why we ended up in Philadelphia, but after registering a complaint with the state Attorney General, my step sister went into a pool of complainers and through a lottery ended up with two tickets for last night’s performance.

OK, I’m not a rock fan, or a Springsteen groupie, I don’t even know any of the words to any of his songs. But this was an amazing performance. We were sitting actually behind the stage, in the 26th row, we were so close we could see the sweat flying. The behind the scenes guitar swaps, sometimes mid-song, and the tuning crew behing the stage, were fascinating, and the drummer, was the 18 year old prodigy son of Max Weinburg, the E Street Band’s regular drummer who is also the drummer for Conan O’Brien and he was tied up on the west Coast doing a taping of the Tonight Show with Conan O’Brien. Jay Weinburg, the son, was unbelievable to watch, and we could see the massive band-aids on his fingers. He never missed a beat, and the playfulness of the band with this youthful member was electrifying.

Onto my creative adventures.

First of all, I got the scarf warp on, pretty effortlessly with the AVL warping wheel. And I started to weave one of the scarves. It doesn’t have the same color clarity of the scarf from Barbara’s warp, but it is definitely more playful and random than I am use to doing. At least there is a warp on the loom, and I can sit and weave when I’m in the mood!

Speaking of weaving…

Placemat Exchange Score: Mom 8 / Bri 7 1/2…

We are so close, but poor Bri, she has about 8 more inches to go on the last placemat and…

Yep, that’s right, the friction brake drum sheared right off the back beam again. Oh crap! So, I have to figure out a second repair, that will get us through the last eight inches of the placemat exchange, and then I’m retiring that beam, and I’ll switch back to the original sectional beam that came with the loom. It is a bigger ’round, and much sturdier built beam, and I never had a problem with it the whole 25 years I owned the loom. This standard warp beam is a complete other story…

And I’m making slow progress on the Sandstone Layers Jacket. I have the fronts up on the form, there is a funky pleat across the lower right front, which I’m still not sure I like, I’ll wait until pockets and belt looms are on before making my final call, and I’m pretty close to deciding on the seam finish for the center back seam. I’m liking the Hong Kong finish, the rest of the seams get topstitched, but not this one.

So, it is lunch time, and I’ll putter today, enjoying my special day, I’ve had all sorts of texts, invitations, and phone calls from friends and family who are very near and dear to my heart. Thanks all for your happy best wishes for the day!

And for Something Completely Different…

Well, I accomplished a lot today, none of the things I was actually suppose to do, I got distracted…

I did get the scholarship applications judged, that was a tough one, all the students were equally qualified. I’m glad I wasn’t the only judge. And I did spent a few hours getting all the work caught up for my guild programs for next year. But that was yesterday. You see, last Friday night, my church had a service auction, and I donated one of the scarves I made in Barbara Herbster’s class the week before, and to my great surprise, there was some furious bidding, and the scarf actually sold for $135. I talked to the woman who bought it afterward and she told me she was prepared to go to $200. So thanks Barbara, for a beautiful warp, but it really got me thinking… And thinking…. And thinking…

Sidebar: I did craft fairs from 1979 – 1989. I’ve been there, and done that. I have such a distaste for the whole affair, total burn out. I enjoyed the people, and the lifestyle, for awhile, but making stuff, lots of stuff, to sell, putting a price tag on creativity, trying to figure out the market, spending every weekend of your life sitting in your booth selling your soul, well, let’s just say that I swore, no matter what happened in the future, I’d never, ever do a craft fair again…. And I also said, I’d never, ever, ever sell my work again, put a price tag on it, and some of that is sort of understandable because what I do best is clothing, and once I make a garment now, I’m largely done with it, and it is nearly impossible to reproduce what I make, even if someone where to pay me handsomely for it. Making handwoven clothing in production is no picnic, which is what I did for 10 years, I bought huge amounts of yarn wholesale, put on no less than 30 yards at a time, (weaving it off in one day), spent huge amounts of money on booth fees, spent ridiculous hours making stuff to sell, filling orders, running a business, and everything else that goes along with that lifestyle. I had no life.

However, I was so enchanted with the scarves I made in Barbara’s class, mostly because she opened up a new way to look at color and blending, and using small amounts of whatever is on the shelf to make it work, which Barbara really does do best, and I got to thinking, really thinking…

So I basically got the jacket cut out, because it was laying across my floor and I couldn’t walk in my studio until I got it cut out and off the floor. I got all the tailor’s tacks in, and played around with interfacing. I also experimented with seam finishes and topstitching. I tried couching with a novelty warp yarn, and it really does define the seams. And I’m hoping it is pretty flexible.

But the whole time, I’m thinking, thinking…

So, I finally gave up, and started poking around the studio, pulling yarns and skeins, and cones, and bits of stuff, because you really don’t need much here, to put on a warp for another round of scarves. Oh boy was this fun…

So I stared at the pile for awhile, and played around with a draft, and wrapped a card to see if I could get a clue how this would look. Barbara just grabs yarn and starts winding. I’m not nearly that confident, but I can see how after awhile, this would be a great way to warp, and I can see doing this for yardage…

I had a number of variegated yarns, and some novelties, but the one thing I didn’t have was any of the flat tape yarns that Barbara used for the supplemental warp. I didn’t want to duplicate the scarf I did in Barbara’s class, after all, that was her design, but I liked the idea of having supplemental warps in some key places, and I actually found a small swatch of a knitted tape, which I carefully unknitted and washed, and then painstakingly pressed to get it to return to its flattened state. I had about 14 yards, which would work for this warp.

I’m also intrigued by the possibility of combining doup leno with this technique, to provide even more surface texture, but I’ll experiment with that down the road… At this point, it is about getting something on the loom…

So, I grabbed my AVL warping wheel, I figured this would be a perfect use for it, because I’d be unloading it onto a sectional beam. So I could wind the warps as I had them on the card, and then every two inches, dump the warp under tension right onto the warp beam. I love this tool, it is a shame it is so expensive. I bought mine at a long ago Convergence when AVL first introduced it, at about half the price it is now. I remember waiting 9 months for it to come…

Once I finished winding two inches, I carried the wheel over to the loom, and slipped the end of the 9 yard warp over the back beam and hitched it to the cord for the section I wanted to wind on the warp beam.

I love this tool!

So, I have 2″ beamed in my 6″ scarf warp, and this will ultimately give me four scarves, and if I like them I can

give them away
add all four of them to my wardrobe
sew all four together into a bigger cloth and make a garment out of them
have a big ‘show and tell’ at my guild
give them away
donate them all to my church
I’m running out of ideas
OK, I could actually sell them.

My guild, the Jockey Hollow Weavers, has a fabulous sale in November. So far I haven’t participated because, gee, I refuse to sell my work. So, depending on how these turn out, I just might actually have something to sell this year. Stay tuned…

Meanwhile, the placemat exchange is coming down to the wire…

Score: Mom 7, Bri 6

Bri came into the studio tonight, and sat down and did another mat. The front beam is groaning under the weight of the 13 mats, it is a pretty small loom, and this is the one where the warp beam cracked, so I’m crossing my finger that the front beam holds as well. After Bri finished her mat, she had about a half hour to kill while she was waiting to leave for the High School, the spring band/choral concert was tonight. So she grabbed my camera, and shot some pictures of her latest obsession, finger braiding. She is making all kinds of bracelets from floss, which she keeps in a box and whenever she gets bored, the box comes out and the braiding begins. I had to share some of the patterns she has done, these adorn her wrists at the moment, and she had to photograph them on her wrists since she can’t get them off.

So there you have it, a productive day for the two of us, and one of the best High School concerts I’ve ever attended. I didn’t work on anything I was suppose to, but you know what? I had fun…

One more note:

I did spend a couple hours this morning alpha testing the new Weavolution site. It isn’t up for viewing yet, but this should be an awesome web connection for handweavers of all levels and disciplines, Tien Chiu is one of the principal designers for it, and coincidently her blog is one of my favorite must reads. She talks about the site on her blog today, and the team was mentioned in the last Weavecast Podcast. One of the features I’m playing with on this new site, is the ability to post a project, and the draft and all the specs. I got to thinking how I should be doing that with the pieces I’ve designed and executed since I started this blog. I’ve been thinking about that anyway, extracting all the entries for a particular piece into one document, with the draft and yarn sources, and providing it as a PDF in the extras section of my website. But for now, I spent some time playing with the Weavolution site, some of the early bugs are getting fixed, as we find them, but it is yet another opportunity to spend your days reading about weaving and getting inspired to get something on that loom, or if you haven’t joined the ranks of handweavers in this country, this will surely inspire you. I’ll keep you posted when Weavolution is finally launched…

An Entertaining Weekend

As promised, I have some great photos of my gardens, or more correctly, our gardens, since none of this would exist without my husband, I’d have a lawn and lawn service, or better yet, I’d probably be in a condo. But my husband loves to play outdoors, and he is pretty good at it. He isn’t afraid of hard work, digging out ponds, running electrical conduit, planting a dozen trees, building decks and patios. And I am the beneficiary of all that work.

Before I get to the pictures though, I want to mention my evening last night, I attended what was I’d say the most fun concert I’ve ever been to, in Maplewood NJ, who knew all this even existed. First some background. My good friend and neighbor Deb, has a daughter, a senior in HS, who is wickedly talented, has a voice that moves me to tears whenever I hear it, and is planning to attend college for music, theatre and fine arts. A local Glee Club offered a scholarship to a senior who was planning a career in music, and my friend’s daughter, Larissa D’Andrea, applied. She won the scholarship, and had to perform at this glee club’s spring concert as part of the deal. I didn’t know much about this Glee Club, actually I don’t even know what a Glee Club is, but I went to hear Larissa sing. The rest was superfluous. Well, was I in for a treat! This was an outstanding concert, if you are from anywhere in NJ, this is a not to be missed group. It is a men’s glee club, they’ve been meeting on Monday nights since the 1940’s, some of these guys are pretty old, and yet, they sang their hearts out, fabulous songs, great harmonies, and accompanied by a 19 year old prodigy, Billy Test. It is worth a visit to his website, he is so gifted, and you can hear him play on the site. One of the sets was done by a sub group called the Doo-wop Preservation Society, and that was even more fun. And of course, the highlight was Larissa. Her mom did a little camera recording, shaky at first, but it settles down eventually, and she posted it on youtube, and if you want a real treat, check out this voice. Larissa is singing “On my Own” from Les Mis, which is one of my favorite songs.

OK, now for a real treat. My husband picked up a couple of flats of annuals, so we spent the cold dreary day planting all the deck boxes and hanging baskets, we had massive thunderstorms last night, which brought in a cold front, and I heard it is dropping down into the 30’s tonight. I think the plants will be OK, there aren’t frost warnings, so I’m crossing my fingers.

This is one of three decks on the back of the house. This one is accessed right off the kitchen, I love to sit out there in the morning sun, and have my tea, though it has been too chilly so far, it will soon get warm…

Below this deck is another one, where we have the eating area, and butting up against the lower deck is a beautiful pond and waterfall. The sound of the waterfall is very soothing while dining.

From the pond, there are two paths, the first travels to a beautiful iron gazebo with a circular patio, the above ground pool is immediately to the right, but there is a cast iron Chimera off this gazebo and it is great to sit out there on fall nights, when the air is chilled, and be kept warm by the fire.

The second path to the left, takes you on a plank walk to the second pond/waterfall. We have a gorgeous azalea which wakes up the whole yard when it blooms.

At the end of the path is the original pond “complex”, there are a number of spillways and the waterfall that all spill into a sizable pond, the fish love it, and there are a number of enormous bullfrogs. There are a lot of bog plantings and blooming water irises, and the wall of spirea is just exploding with blooms.

Finally, if you continue on the path, you end up in the front yard, and this is one of the views of the front, side yard. We actually own two lots, the house sits in the middle of the first lot, with the cherry tree in front of it, I showed that photo a couple weeks ago, but this is the view of the front of the other lot. The little tree in the center front foreground is the Dawn Redwood Sequoia I wrote about in a previous blog. It will become a huge tree, and produce some pretty decent shade I’m thinking, and really become a corner stone of the house. You can see the stump of the clump birch we had to fell, which was dying, to make room for the little sequoia. So far all the plants are doing well, and I’m enjoying the colors and inspiration from the garden, everything is so lush and fragrant. We live on a dead end street, so the traffic is minimal, and the wildlife abundant. It is our little half acre of suburbia, and I’m really grateful for all of my husband’s hard work, because I could never have done this on my own.

Busy Days

The days are just getting away from me, and my to-do list is starting to get a bit out of control. And I feel like I am moving through Jello, going through the motions but not accomplishing much. There are lots of things on the calendar taking me away from a good solid day’s worth of work, plus I am procrastinating big time, starting the new presentation on Website Success. Once I’m into it, I know I’ll get lost in it, and not come up for air for about six weeks, so I’m hesitant to jump in.

Meanwhile, I have an article to write for Shuttle, Spindle and Dyepot, and a book review as well. I have to finish the remaining two placemats for the exchange, I have to write up and get out the contracts for my guild, and get the information to the newsletter editor, and I have to review 5 scholarship applications for the Music Parents Scholarship for this year. Those are probably due first.

And, big news, I have to finalize my contracts for Convergence 2010. Yep, I finally have contracts in hand. It took longer than usual because there was a lot of back and forth as to what I would actually teach for them. This is an unusual situation, and kind of complicated, and partly what triggered my bout of whining a couple weeks back, about being a ‘has been’…

Convergence is an international conference for not only handweaving, but many other disciplines in the fiber arts, and one that can keep you visible and open other opportunities. I have taught at every Convergence since 2000 in Cincinnati. Therein lies the problem. First off, I am known in handweaving circles for my garment construction classes for handweavers, I have those classes down to a well oiled machine, there are only so many ways to teach garment construction, and I’d like to think I have streamlined the process to work for conference and guild situations of mixed skill levels and all body types. I’m good at what I do. But trying to reinvent oneself each time for Convergence, where cutting edge and up and coming teachers and topics get first priority, is pretty darn impossible. I try to come up with new workshops and seminars yearly, but it isn’t enough. So, I am grateful to the HGA for giving me a full plate at the next Convergence, but I know that after 10 years, there are others out there that are developing newer and more cutting edge kinds of workshops, and I’ve been told by many that mostly I am thought of as the ‘Go To Girl for Sewing’. Even my ‘Photographing your Work” seminar, though extremely well received when I give it, many have opted to hire a ‘professional photographer’ instead to do the seminar. Most don’t know my original degree was in textiles and photography. But I digress….

So, I’ve spent a lot of time this week thinking about where I’m going with all this, I’m not “washed up” so much as having to look down the line to what’s next for me and where can I take my skill set and stay personally challenged and still make a living. No answers are coming, but I’m more comfortable with the idea of just seeing where life takes me for the moment….

So, I am teaching at Convergence in Albuquerque, see the full list of what I’m teaching on my website Schedule.

So, with all this stuff on my plate, what did I actually do today? Not any of the above…

I started a new project! Unless you have a fantastic memory, have been reading this blog since back in December, and have actually been keeping track of the six projects I outlined back then, you don’t remember Sandstone Layers or Project Two! The yardage for this was woven back in 2007, and it is one of my favorites. I’d like to make a jacket out of it, but I am longing for a different kind of jacket look than my last couple, and I found a great jacket in the January 2008 issue of Burda World of Fashion. It is sort of slouchy, and has a big belt, and a great big flowing collar. Some of the engineering still has to be worked out, but I spent all afternoon yesterday and this morning tracing the pattern, and then fitting it onto the dressform. It took much longer than normal, because there were so many pattern pieces and because the jacket was actually designed for plus sizing and I had to regrade the smallest size in the pattern down another three sizes.

I tried it on the form, and liked what I got, except for a couple of areas, one being the asymmetrical hem. I thought the angle and pitch of the right side was too much. So I pinned up what I thought was more appropriate.

Once I added the belt to the jacket pattern, it was pretty clear I would have the same problem as the last Burda jacket I made, the waist was too high for me. I am really long waisted. So I knew I would need to chop all the body pieces above the waist and lower the whole waistline, carrying the belt loops with it.

Of course as I puttered with the pattern, I got sidetracked here and there, wondering what sort of buttons I had in my stash that would work with this. I have bins of buttons, some in order, but most not…

Recently a friend who was cleaning out her deceased aunt’s house, gave me a cookie tin of buttons, lots of Bakelite, and some pretty interesting shell buttons, sadly with a coating of powdery mildew, and I rooted through there and found some I thought worthy of cleaning and set out with a tooth brush and some Softscrub.

After a couple hours of trying to find three buttons that I liked with the fabric that were the right size, I took a couple of the whitish abalone buttons and turned them over, and voila! The perfect color buttons were hiding on the back!

The flash is making them look a little too white, but they are beautiful and creamy pink/green on the back, and perfect for the fabric. And my favorite belt works as well. So, now for the layout…

This is going to be another one of those layouts that when I’m finished cutting, I’ll just have dust left. I love when this all works out. I won’t line this jacket, but will figure out what if anything I’ll interface with since I want the collar pieces to drape well. Stay tuned…