Arctic Sky Completed

Yippee!  I finished the jacket.  I am so happy with it.  As a matter of fact, today was a pretty good day, I accomplished a lot.  And this is actually my second blog today.  First the previous blog, with the spinning wheel caper.  While I was in the middle of that, I actually started sorting through all the magazines my textiley friend send the other day, largely because I have a guild meeting on Monday and want to unload all the duplicates, my shelves are starting to bend from the weight!  There weren’t too many, and I did get to put away a whole stack of my own recent acquisitions.  I hadn’t done that in awhile.

jacketclosedSo, I got the lining in.  And it is beautiful.  I love using these sari’s as linings, a gift from my husband’s last couple of trips to India.  I blogged about it in early February.  I sat chatting with a girlfriend yesterday while I started the hours of handwork, a really good friend who is undergoing treatment for breast cancer.  It felt good to just sit and sew and chat, she lives on the west coast, and in this day of 160 character bytes of information, texts, emails, and twitters, an old fashioned hour and a half chat while I sewed in my lining was just the best treat for both of us.

I spent the afternoon (after organizing my magazines and fixing the cracked hub on my spinning wheel) writing an article for Shuttle, Spindle and Dyepot.  Sandra Bowles asked me to do a series of articles for the next three issues of SS&D, publication of the Handweavers Guild of America, on the Challenge Project I’ve been talking about in recent blogs.  So I did a synopsis of Loretta’s and my experience as collaborators and team members, and wrote the article today.  I just have to proof and upload all the images.  Future articles will be about the other two teams.

So after dinner, I chatted simultaneously with my husband in New Hampshire via instant message on my computer, and my girlfriend Dawn via text message on my cell phone, and continued the hand sewing on the jacket.  I will say that was a bit of a juggling act.  I kept having to put the thimble down and answer the two sets of messages, and eventually just gave up in favor of the old fashion chat via speaker phone.  I finished the lining, took some quick photos, and voilá!

jacketopendetail

Remembering When…

Now that I have a son in his first year of college, I often think back on my first year of school.  I “went away” to school, all the way “up north” which meant Northern NJ, since I grew up in Southern NJ.  It was about a two hour car ride, if I had a car, and about the same on  the Trailways bus from NYC to exit 4 of the NJ turnpike when I wanted to go home.  Let’s just say I didn’t go home too often.

Anyway, my son is a musical theatre major and commutes to the local community college.  So in essence, we both participated in a Fine and Performing Arts degree program.  My son’s expenses for a theatre major, mostly consist of books, dance shoes, and the occasional emergency costume, and lots of diner runs after rehearsals.  Of course gas and food are right in there, he is quite fortunate, I ate dorm food for at least two years until I got my own apartment.  Anyway, my expenses as an art student were quite different since I needed art supplies.  Lots of them.  There were books of course, but there were also lab fees, and the costs of paints, canvases, photo paper, film, yarn, and whatever else you needed to create great works of art.

In the spring of 1974, a second semester freshman at Montclair State College (now University), I took my first fiber class in the art department, and well the rest is history.  We learned in that class, a basic overview of fiber techniques, a smorgasborg if you will, and among the myriad of techniques, was spinning on a drop spindle, and for the braver students, the spinning wheel.  Classes were large then, and the fiber department popular.

It is no surprise I loved spinning, and you can read that whole story and how I met my mother in law in an essay I did entitled Circle of Threads.  But this isn’t really about that.  At the end of the semester, the graduate assistant for the fiber studio, announced to all the classes that she discovered an opportunity to purchase spinning wheels direct from this place in New Zealand, they would be in kit form, unfinished, and if she could get 10 orders, she could get the wholesale price of $35.00.  I wrote home for more money.  My father wasn’t real happy about fronting me the money to some unknown graduate student to send to New Zealand to some company called Ashford, and was pretty sure I’d never see this “spinning wheel” and what the heck did I want with that anyway…  But, gotta love my dad, he sent me the money…

That summer, I patiently waited for my wheel to arrive, I couldn’t do much else because I spent most of the summer in bed in the living room with mono.  Back then when you were diagnosed with mono, you went to bed for six weeks.  Heck of a way to spend the first summer home after a year away from college.  Anyway, late in August, 1974,  a big flat box arrived, with lots of wood parts and directions.  All the way from New Zealand, it was my Ashford Spinning Wheel.  I was soooooo excited.  Even after all these years, I still remember how excited I was.  I carefully put it together, and I actually owned a working spinning wheel…

That wheel served me well over the next 35 years.  I spent many a Saturday while in college, demonstrating spinning at the Dey Mansion in Totowa NJ, dressed in a colonial outfit I made from gingham.  I think that dress is still in the attic somewhere.  I brought the wheel to Vermont to learn how to spin better, while staying with my boyfriend’s mother who was, get this, a master spinner.  How lucky was that!  (Read Circle of Threads)  I hauled the wheel around whenever I did demo’s to school kids and scout organizations, 4-H fairs, and enrichment programs.  And the wheel just kept on spinning.  I replaced the little leather piece on the bottom of the treadle rail.  I replaced the drive band many times, and am constantly replacing the rubber band that controls the drag on the bobbin in the flyer.  And I throw in spinnng wheel oil every now and then to keep it running smoothly.

Alas, about six months ago, as I was dusting the wheel, I noticed that the hub of the wheel had cracked apart, and the whole wheel component was loose.  Since I wasn’t using the wheel at the moment, I had inherited my mother in law’s upright castle wheel, made for her by Wes Blackburn in Canada,  it wasn’t necessary to drop everything and take the wheel apart.

wheelWell, I got a call to teach in about 10 days, a number of 2nd graders in a nearby elementary school, all about fiber, and where it comes from and how we make cloth.  I’ve been to this school before and it is alway a great experience.  But darn, my wheel is out of commission.  I checked the Blackburn wheel, and the driveband had split apart.  So both wheels were out of commission.  So, I made it a priority today, to root through the files, find the assembly directions for my trusty Ashford, and dismantle the wheel, so I could get a clear shot of the hub, put in glue, and clamp it overnight.integratedtubes

Meanwhile, at the end of my sophmore year in college, I had to write home to my dad again asking for a much larger amount of money, this time for something like 50 pounds of jute.  You see I was making this very large woven project with jute coming out either end of the double woven tubes…  At least I wasn’t asking for a loom….    yet…….

The Planets have Aligned!

For a day that started out poorly, it ended most spectacularly!  I didn’t sleep well last night.  I had too much partying, more alcohol than I usually consume (which is almost nothing, hence the problem) and rich food, and too much of it, and I laid awake most of the night, trying to sleep, but finally giving up and reading. (Joan Dideon’s Year of Magical Thinking).  Which meant I was a wreck in the morning.  And my daughter called from school to have me make a doctors appointment to have her checked for strep.  So by the time I finally got up, made the appointment, drove to the HS to get her, took her to the doctor (she did not have strep, only a virus, and the doctor sent her back to school) and drove back home, it was lunch time.  My plans of all I was going to accomplish were rapidly sifting through my fingers.  And on top of that, a miserable cold rain made everything soggy and frigid.  One of those bone chilling days where you just can’t get warm.

But I decided to try to make some headway on the new website.  I only had four pages to go, and one of them was pretty critical.  My schedule.  I hadn’t updated the old site in awhile, and a lot needed to be entered.  Once I decided on a format, I just had to look through all my files and emails to plug in as much information as I had, all the dates and contacts, and the topics I was teaching.  Then to simplify the site, I linked PDF files for the prospectuses instead of all the lengthy descriptions like I had on the old site.

So I plodded along, got my son to take my daughter back to the HS tonight for jazz band, and sent him out for a Chinese Food run.  And I continued to plod…

The upshot is, I FINISHED THE SITE!  I can’t believe it.  I’m done.  I’m so proud of what I’ve done.  And I put a temporary home page on the old site to direct to the new site, eventually when I’m sure everything is correct, and my husband returns from New Hampshire, I’ll wipe out the old site, and park it with the new one, so whether you go to www.weaversew.com or www.daryllancaster.com, you will end up in the same place.

Just as the last file uploaded, an email came in from Sandra Bowles, executive director of the Handweavers Guild of front-lrAmerica, Inc. telling me that they have approved my presentation for the Challenge Project I did last year for them, and I’m OK to market the presentation on a CD, to any guild that would like to show it for a guild meeting or program. I have to say that Sandy went out of her way, doing way more than I asked, by carefully working through all 81 slides, and proofing, editing, and watching for copyright issues, in a very professional and thorough manner.  I am very grateful Sandy.  So, give me a few days and I’ll have the CD up on my eShop.  I think I’ll offer it as both a PowerPoint and a PDF file on the same disk.  If you are a member of a guild, weaving, sewing, whatever, or just plain curious, this CD presentation is intended to stand alone, without me, as an inexpensive hour and a half program, following the year long challenge presentation, where I was paired with a designer I had never met, given yarn I’d have never picked to work with, in colors that don’t appeal to me, and we had a year to come up with a runway ensemble to debut at the Convergence 2008 Tampa Bay Fashion Show.  The 81 slide presentation starts with the design process, which was completely done with emails, and then the step by step sampling for the woven fabric, the design and pattern making , the cutting out and construction of the coat and dress, and the final embellishments, hand felting and beading that kept my partner Lorretta Dian Phipps up too many nights in a row.  There are some great production photos, and I’m really proud of the finished ensemble and the presentation as well.

And I even got an hour off to watch the latest installment of the new HBO series, #1 Ladies Detective Agency, starring Jill Scott.  (I had recorded it from Sunday night since I was driving to the airport while it was airing). It is as delightful as the series by Alexander McCall Smith, and I have to almost say, I like it even more.  The gentle life in Botswana, the interesting cases that fall into the lap of Precious Ramotswe, the endearing characters, and the spectacular scenery all keep me captivated and yearning for more.

Dare I hope to get the lining done on the coat tomorrow?

A Weekend Off!

I don’t realize how little time I take off from the studio.  Since my studio is part of my home, cooking dinner is sometimes the only thing that gets me out of the studio in the course of the entire day, morning until bedtime.  I love being in my studio, there is always something going on, something to challenge me, something to draw me back after dinner, but I fear sometimes that I lose my perspective and ability to get out and just have some fun.  So other than an intense, nose to the grindstone effort to get the pantaloons done for the Cinderella coachman costume for my son, I actually spent the weekend entertaining my mom and step-dad, watching Les Mis at my step-niece’s HS in Mount Olive, (which was an unbelievable production for HS), church this morning, (making a couple of new friends), a party this afternoon, (where I spent some time getting re-aquainted with some old friends), a trip to the airport tonight to drop off my husband, (where my girlfriend tagged along and we went out for margaritas and nachos afterward), and now I’ve had my fill of socializing and I am grateful for some perspective!  Time to get back into the studio tomorrow!  I have a jacket to finish, a website to finish, and an article to write for SS&D.  And I have placemats to weave.

mat_exchangeMy daughter finished her second mat.  So now the race is on.  She has finished two of the eight needed for the guild placemat exchange, and I have only finished one.  But in all fairness, I got sidetracked by a pair of pantaloons…

Speaking of pantaloons, here they are, almost finished, held together with pins for the final fitting, and then I just hadpantaloons to sew everything together on the machine.  To refresh everyone’s memory, my son is a theatre major at County College of Morris.  He plays the coachman and is in the ensemble for their spring production of Cinderella.  They gave him an old leiutenant’s doublet from Van Horn and Sons Theatrical Costumes, the poor doublet was threadbare and tattered, and I did my best to repair, but he needed pantaloons to go with it.  To dull the brocade I used, I first boiled it in coffee and tea, which dirtied the fabric a bit, but not to the extent of the jacket.   I had a knit on the shelf that would work for the base color, so I backed it with an inserted weft interfacing and then started cutting.  I love how the pantaloons look, and on stage, sitting on a pumpkin, in black tights and black dance shoes, my son will look appropriate for a coachman that was once a rat.  The green ski hat is part of a 19 year old male college student costume so I imagine he will have to ditch that.

The weather today was spectacular.  The most gorgeous day so far this year.  It was sunny and 70 degrees, and everything is sprouting green, and the daffodils are just about to explode, the forsythia is bordering on full bloom, I love my yard this time of the year, in  spite of all the work I need to do.  It was a great day for an afternoon party which we were able to spend a good portion of outdoors.  Rain is predicted for the next couple of days, I’m hoping all this wet weather will help my little vegetable garden!  I love spring lettuces…

Special Delivery

I have a really great weaving buddy friend, who has been known on occasion to go through massive clean-outs of areas of her house, and she will throw everything in a box she doesn’t want and ship it to me.  I always love “care” packages from my friend.  She knows whatever is in the box will get some attention from me, and that I have enough contacts to see that everything finds a good home.

magazinesmagazines2So today my daughter was trying to come in the front door after school, and couldn’t get in because of a huge box, full of magazines, weaving journals, and fiber books.  OMG!

What a treasure box this is, there are magazines dating back to the 40’s.  The highlights include a December 1942 Woman’s Day with a lovely article on weaving in it, back issues of Fiber Arts, SS&D, Handweaver and Craftsman and Craft Horizons.  There is a newsletter series from the 50’s-60’s called the Shuttle, I think published by Maysville.  There are two volumns of Handweaving News from the 1930’s from Nellie Sargent Johnson, Detroit.  And my favorite, a bound volume of 1945-46 issues of Osma Gallinger’s Shuttle Service complete with actual woven samples.  All of this was apparently in the storage unit.  This is my lucky day!  There was also a copy of Ann Sutton’s  Structure of Weaving, you’d think I’d already have that one in my library, oddly enough I didn’t.  And I have a huge textile/periodical library!

After I got through that very welcomed distraction, I got down to business, I finished another couple pages on the new website, actually, looking over what’s left, it seems I only have four more pages to create.  The Extras Page will be ongoing, I’ll move over PDF articles and things from my old site, but I hope to add to it, maybe extracting out the parts of the blog that pertain to specific garments and creating an all- in- one article to make it easy to follow the string.  Stuff like that.  I was trying to do a check on the site tonight, make sure everything I uploaded was working, but the site seems to be down.  I’ll check later.

jacketI managed to get the sleeves into the jacket, and I am soooooo happy with it.  It looks fabulous on, so trim and angular, the lime green felt piping just pops right out of the jacket.  The jacket was a dream to sew, there was enough wool content to remind me why I love tailoring wool, and why my mom would haul us down to 4th street in Philadelphia  when we were growing up, to get the best wools for her suits and coats.  Now I’m down to the lining, which should go together quickly, and then hours of handwork.

Tomorrow I have to spend the day making pantaloons for my son’s costume for Cinderella.  I mentioned this in the last blog, but I have a better idea now of what they want, and I rooted through my stash and found enough stuff to pull this off without having to spend any money.  I found a length of a jacquard white on white decorator fabric, which was too white and clean looking for the age and condition of the dublet they gave me.  So I poured the remaining morning coffee and tea into a pot on the stove and “aged” the jacquard fabric to the correct color.  I took measurements of my son’s trim muscular body, and I’ll see if I can whip out a pair of pantaloons!  Stay tuned…