Houston, the Eagle has Landed!

loomWoo Hoo!  My loom is out of intensive care and back in service!  What a scary event.  If you are just tuning in, read yesterday’s blog.  A quick trip to the hardware store got me some new screws, and something called TITEN for screws.  Armed with glue, the new larger screws, and a tube of this tightening stuff that fills gaps, my daughter and I performed surgery on the loom, and now the beam seems to be working better than new.  And I was able to finish the placemat I was working on, without any change in tension.

So, the new score, Brianna 3, mom 3.

If you are really just tuning in, my daughter and I are working on a placemat exchange with our guild.  Each of us has to weave 8 placemats, each mat woven with a color given to us by each of the other participants in the exchange.  When finished, we will each have 8 mats, all in our chosen color, in 8 different overshot patterns.  I chose a celadon green, and Brianna chose, purple.  It was pretty scary to have the warp beam break apart in the middle of one of the mats.  But all is well.  Big exhale.

Must have been something in the planets.  There was a line at the hardware storfrostedfloralsdetaillre in town of people with broken toilets, broken sinks, etc.  It was hard to explain my broken warp beam, amongst the toilet flapper issues, but everyone cheerfully listened and helped as best they could.

Big news!  I got an acceptance letter for my dress, Frosted Florals, for the Surface Design Association’s Textile Fusion: Interactive Fashion Performance.  The fashion show will be part of the SDA’s international textile conference, Off the Grid.  So I’ll have my Big Sister piece in the members show, and I’ll have a piece on the runway.  One of these days I really should attend the conference as well.

Houston We Have a Problem…

cdFirst, I want to update everyone on the Designers’ Fashion Challenge Presentation CD.  It is up on my site, available on the page with the monographs for sale.  The CD is $30. plus shipping, and has both PPT (PowerPoint) and PDF formats on it.  The presentation was designed for a guild program, this can work for handweaving guilds as well as sewing guilds.  I got the OK from the HGA to market it, and I’m really proud of the work I did, the whole experience, and I think the presentation is a great overview of the whole design process as well as the step by step journey Loretta and I took to pull this off.

Well we all survived the weekend.  My husband flew back from New Hampshire Friday evening, and he spent Saturday fertilizing the roses, and spread Holly Tone, and did some general yard work, in the rain, all while I was happily at my American Sewing Guild meeting making a spa coat out of two bath towels.  I sort of felt sorry for him.

Sunday, my mom, who lives in Maryland, just off the beltway, invited the whole family there for Easter dinner.  That’s great, except it is three hours away.  On a good day.  Which if you’ve ever driven I-95, or the Garden State Parkway, or the NJ Turnpike, you know there is never a good day.  Still, we made it down in good time, had a lovely dinner, and then turned around and drove home.  It took us about an hour just to get to the Delaware state line.  And another three hours to drive home to north Jersey.  We arrived home with just enough time for my husband to throw his clean clothes back into the suitcase, and catch a few hours sleep, he was off to the airport by 6am this morning.  I really felt sorry for him.  My daughter started her spring break today, so she reluctantly got out of bed because I wanted to drag her along to my daytime guild meeting.  I love the Frances Irwin Guild, there are some amazing weavers in this group, and today’s program was a pleasant surprise.  I hadn’t planned to stay long, because I had a 1:15 appointment with my daughter’s pediatrician for her physical, which she needed so she could compete in a track meet on Wednesday, even though this is spring break.  Last year’s annual physical expired on Friday.  Timing is everything…

carpetsWho knew I’d love the speaker so much I’d be really wishing I’d been able to stay longer and be able to participate in the workshop that followed.  Rabbit Goody has been in the textile world for many many years.  She has a studio called Thistle Hill Weavers, that specializes in custom woven historic reproduction carpet, fabrics, trims, bed hangings, etc.  All I can say is, WOW!  I’m not really interested in historic textiles the way I am interested in fashion and garments.  But Rabbit’s presentation was fabulous, it talked mostly about Venetian and Geometric Ingrain Carpets, which I didn’t think interested me, until she started the presentation.  She is an excellent speaker, full of stories, incredibly knowledgable, and it was really hard to leave the meeting early to get my daughter to her appointment.

fleeceMeanwhile, it is sheep shearing time.  No, I don’t have sheep, nor do I want any, nor do I think my town would even let me think about owning sheep, but many members of my guilds do.  One of the members, Carla Kostelnik just had her sheep shorn, and brought the fleeces to the meeting to give away.  Mostly Corriedales, I came home with three fleeces, because the ones I’d had for years, were mostly used up in demos and classes, and I have this day of demonstrations and lectures at an area elementary school next week.  So now I have to figure out the best place and best method to store them.  I have them in plastic ziplocs in the garage for now, the jumbo kind, but I’m thinking they shouldn’t be sealed in plastic.

So I got my daughter to her physical, and dealt with some emails, and got her to her trombone lesson, and got her to girl scouts, and I was going to try to get another mat finished from the placemat exchange, which was going along fine, until suddenly the beam stopped holding tension.  This seem to be the problem I wasmats having earlier which I blogged about awhile ago, and now that I had a rosin bag in hand, courtesy of Sally, on Sandy Gunther’s suggestion, I tried to blow a little rosin dust in there, and realized, to my complete horror, that the problem wasn’t warp slippage, the screws that hold the beam to the end cap that supports the brake had sheared off, and I could turn the brake drum all I wanted but the beam wasn’t going wmdanywhere.  The beam had separated from the brake drum.  So I unscrewed the main  bolt that holds the beam in place and dismantled the beam as best I could, desperate to not lose any of the 12 yards of warp I put on.  We’ve only done five of the 16 mats for the placemat exchange.  My daughter, who has been taking a woodworking class in HS, ran to the garage and scrounged until she found some weapons of mass destruction, and expertly wedged some glue into the actual beam that was splitting and beamclamped it overnight.  I’ll go to the hardware store tomorrow, and see if I can replace the screws that sheered off.  I have to say that this is an unfortunate thing, I rarely have trouble with any of screwsmy equipment, the sewing machine gods and the loom gods usually are my friends.  This loom usually has a sectional beam on it, but I replaced the sectional beam a couple of months ago, with the standard beam I’ve had laying around for 20 years, thinking it would beam finer threads more consitently, and it did, but this standard warp beam has some design issues I never knew about since I’ve never actually used it before.  It couldn’t take the stress of warp tensioning.  So I won’t panic.  I’ll make a trip to the hardware store, and see if my daughter and I can’t get this beam back together and working.

So, if you are keeping placemat exchange score, Brianna 3, mom 2 1/4.  And holding…

The Easter Bonnet

Easter means many things to many people.  Obviously there is a religious connotation here, but others view Easter as the official start of spring, flowers, color, and of course, the fashion police lifting the ban on wearing white shoes.  Remember back when you couldn’t wear white shoes before Easter?

momEaster meant a lot for me growing up, there was of course the religious significance, having grown up Catholic, and the secular jelly beans, dyeing of Easter Eggs, Marshmallow Peeps, which only came in yellow as I recall.  (Check out the Washington Posts annual Peep Show Competition, dioramas using Marshmallow Peeps).  But the best thing I remember about Easter when I was growing up, was the fashion parade.  My mother was a fabulous tailor, she made the most glorious suits, and every Easter she would debut her latest creation, and my dad, who kept our family on a very tight budget, would always indulge my mom at Easter with a new bonnet!  This is my most favorite photo of my childhood, my mom in a black linen suit, with her new chapeau, and matching bunny outfits for me and my younger sisters.  I always felt a bit superior as the oldest since I was big enough to get the whole bunny on the front of my dress, my youngest sister only got the head.

I woke up this morning feeling a bit adrift.  Largely I get like this when I am in between projects.  There is the mourning period after I finish a huge undertaking, because honestly, housework and such just doesn’t pull me out of bed in the morning.  Since I had a terrific week of finishing my website, the Arctic Sky jacket, my article for SS&D, and spinning wheel repair, and the Challenge Presentation, I just hadn’t had the opportunity to dive into the next big thing.  So I laid in bed listening to NPR, until the BBC World Service came on, which meant it was 9am, and guilt finally got me moving.  I did vacuum the bedroom after breakfast and clean up the kitchen, and I did go outside and sweep all the maple blooms off the myriad of decks we have in the back of the house.  I love maple trees, but the are sooooo messy.  No sooner do you get all the red gloppy blossoms swept up, but the tree starts sending down an avalanche of helicopters.  The first couple are cute.  After that I need a rake.

project6So I kept thinking about Sunday, being Easter, and my mom and her fashion parade.  I’ve been looking at the leftover fabric from the fashion challenge for the last week or so, because I’ve been working on the final presentation. (I’m still waiting for one more small detail from the HGA, the original invitation had a typo in it, and they are sending me a new one, so the CD isn’t up on the eShop yet).  The fabric just doesn’t scream jacket at me, and I’m getting quite a few jackets in my wardrobe, what I don’t have, is a handwoven dress.  I’m not talking gown, like the one I did recently that I wore for the runway in California.  I’m talking a 60’s style, slim fitting short summer dress.  This fabric, which was affectionately called in earlier blogs, Project 6, was handwoven using the “Splash” yarns from the Convergence Challenge Project, and I think that’s a really appropriate name for this colorful spring fabric.

I made a great dress a couple years back, to go with the Forest Fire Jacket.  You may recall the photo session I did with that.forestfirecoat It was an orange raw silk, and I used a Vogue pattern.  The dress was a princess seam style, with a round neck, and it should have fit me like a glove.  But I made it more for the original photo, to fit my daughter who was a couple sizes larger than me.  Now that I’ve lost the excess cancer med weight, the dress is huge on me.  So the first order of the day was to get the dress to fit.dress I tried it on, got my daughter to pin the excess out the back, I figured rather than remake the whole dress, I could just in this case, remove the extra 5 inches or so in the back.  In this case it worked.dressback So I carefully took the zipper out, and cut away the lining, and remade the back of the dress.

I decided to remake the original pattern, cutting it to a smaller size, and taking in, in additional places to better fit my body.  Rather than dive right into the Splash fabric, I chose to make the dress up first in something else, just to make sure I’ve got it right.  So I found a brocade fabric I had bought to make something else, and cut out another dress with the altered pattern.brocadedress And I just happen to have a black silk sari for a lining!  So, the orange silk dress now fits me like a glove, and the brocade dress is cut out, and I did a quick layout of the spash fabric to see if the pattern pieces will fit.  I’ll have to do a creative layout, but I think I can get everything out, with  the color consistent all the way around.  I think it will be a smashing dress for the summer, it won’t be done for Easter, but I have my new Arctic Sky jacket to wear.splashlayout So I’m off and running again…

Here’s the score so far on the placemat exchange, Brianna 3, mom 2.

Arctic Sky Completed

Yippee!  I finished the jacket.  I am so happy with it.  As a matter of fact, today was a pretty good day, I accomplished a lot.  And this is actually my second blog today.  First the previous blog, with the spinning wheel caper.  While I was in the middle of that, I actually started sorting through all the magazines my textiley friend send the other day, largely because I have a guild meeting on Monday and want to unload all the duplicates, my shelves are starting to bend from the weight!  There weren’t too many, and I did get to put away a whole stack of my own recent acquisitions.  I hadn’t done that in awhile.

jacketclosedSo, I got the lining in.  And it is beautiful.  I love using these sari’s as linings, a gift from my husband’s last couple of trips to India.  I blogged about it in early February.  I sat chatting with a girlfriend yesterday while I started the hours of handwork, a really good friend who is undergoing treatment for breast cancer.  It felt good to just sit and sew and chat, she lives on the west coast, and in this day of 160 character bytes of information, texts, emails, and twitters, an old fashioned hour and a half chat while I sewed in my lining was just the best treat for both of us.

I spent the afternoon (after organizing my magazines and fixing the cracked hub on my spinning wheel) writing an article for Shuttle, Spindle and Dyepot.  Sandra Bowles asked me to do a series of articles for the next three issues of SS&D, publication of the Handweavers Guild of America, on the Challenge Project I’ve been talking about in recent blogs.  So I did a synopsis of Loretta’s and my experience as collaborators and team members, and wrote the article today.  I just have to proof and upload all the images.  Future articles will be about the other two teams.

So after dinner, I chatted simultaneously with my husband in New Hampshire via instant message on my computer, and my girlfriend Dawn via text message on my cell phone, and continued the hand sewing on the jacket.  I will say that was a bit of a juggling act.  I kept having to put the thimble down and answer the two sets of messages, and eventually just gave up in favor of the old fashion chat via speaker phone.  I finished the lining, took some quick photos, and voilá!

jacketopendetail

Remembering When…

Now that I have a son in his first year of college, I often think back on my first year of school.  I “went away” to school, all the way “up north” which meant Northern NJ, since I grew up in Southern NJ.  It was about a two hour car ride, if I had a car, and about the same on  the Trailways bus from NYC to exit 4 of the NJ turnpike when I wanted to go home.  Let’s just say I didn’t go home too often.

Anyway, my son is a musical theatre major and commutes to the local community college.  So in essence, we both participated in a Fine and Performing Arts degree program.  My son’s expenses for a theatre major, mostly consist of books, dance shoes, and the occasional emergency costume, and lots of diner runs after rehearsals.  Of course gas and food are right in there, he is quite fortunate, I ate dorm food for at least two years until I got my own apartment.  Anyway, my expenses as an art student were quite different since I needed art supplies.  Lots of them.  There were books of course, but there were also lab fees, and the costs of paints, canvases, photo paper, film, yarn, and whatever else you needed to create great works of art.

In the spring of 1974, a second semester freshman at Montclair State College (now University), I took my first fiber class in the art department, and well the rest is history.  We learned in that class, a basic overview of fiber techniques, a smorgasborg if you will, and among the myriad of techniques, was spinning on a drop spindle, and for the braver students, the spinning wheel.  Classes were large then, and the fiber department popular.

It is no surprise I loved spinning, and you can read that whole story and how I met my mother in law in an essay I did entitled Circle of Threads.  But this isn’t really about that.  At the end of the semester, the graduate assistant for the fiber studio, announced to all the classes that she discovered an opportunity to purchase spinning wheels direct from this place in New Zealand, they would be in kit form, unfinished, and if she could get 10 orders, she could get the wholesale price of $35.00.  I wrote home for more money.  My father wasn’t real happy about fronting me the money to some unknown graduate student to send to New Zealand to some company called Ashford, and was pretty sure I’d never see this “spinning wheel” and what the heck did I want with that anyway…  But, gotta love my dad, he sent me the money…

That summer, I patiently waited for my wheel to arrive, I couldn’t do much else because I spent most of the summer in bed in the living room with mono.  Back then when you were diagnosed with mono, you went to bed for six weeks.  Heck of a way to spend the first summer home after a year away from college.  Anyway, late in August, 1974,  a big flat box arrived, with lots of wood parts and directions.  All the way from New Zealand, it was my Ashford Spinning Wheel.  I was soooooo excited.  Even after all these years, I still remember how excited I was.  I carefully put it together, and I actually owned a working spinning wheel…

That wheel served me well over the next 35 years.  I spent many a Saturday while in college, demonstrating spinning at the Dey Mansion in Totowa NJ, dressed in a colonial outfit I made from gingham.  I think that dress is still in the attic somewhere.  I brought the wheel to Vermont to learn how to spin better, while staying with my boyfriend’s mother who was, get this, a master spinner.  How lucky was that!  (Read Circle of Threads)  I hauled the wheel around whenever I did demo’s to school kids and scout organizations, 4-H fairs, and enrichment programs.  And the wheel just kept on spinning.  I replaced the little leather piece on the bottom of the treadle rail.  I replaced the drive band many times, and am constantly replacing the rubber band that controls the drag on the bobbin in the flyer.  And I throw in spinnng wheel oil every now and then to keep it running smoothly.

Alas, about six months ago, as I was dusting the wheel, I noticed that the hub of the wheel had cracked apart, and the whole wheel component was loose.  Since I wasn’t using the wheel at the moment, I had inherited my mother in law’s upright castle wheel, made for her by Wes Blackburn in Canada,  it wasn’t necessary to drop everything and take the wheel apart.

wheelWell, I got a call to teach in about 10 days, a number of 2nd graders in a nearby elementary school, all about fiber, and where it comes from and how we make cloth.  I’ve been to this school before and it is alway a great experience.  But darn, my wheel is out of commission.  I checked the Blackburn wheel, and the driveband had split apart.  So both wheels were out of commission.  So, I made it a priority today, to root through the files, find the assembly directions for my trusty Ashford, and dismantle the wheel, so I could get a clear shot of the hub, put in glue, and clamp it overnight.integratedtubes

Meanwhile, at the end of my sophmore year in college, I had to write home to my dad again asking for a much larger amount of money, this time for something like 50 pounds of jute.  You see I was making this very large woven project with jute coming out either end of the double woven tubes…  At least I wasn’t asking for a loom….    yet…….