The Times They Are A-Changin’…

With apologies to Dylan.

If you read my previous post, I mentioned that I’ve been around the weaving world for awhile.  I’ve seen a lot, heard a lot, taught a lot, laughed a lot, admired a lot, seen guilds fade away and become reborn, buried long time members who started guilds, read a lot of books and magazines on the subject, and so when I say the times they are a-changin’, I come with a pretty strong background of experience.

The great news is that new blood has entered the weaving complex and that is a really really good thing.  The hard part is, the new blood brings new experiences, social media expertise, a curiosity and a new perspective.

Unless you are really really fortunate to live near Yarn Barn of Kansas or Webs or Halcyon or the Woolery or Eugene Textile Center or any of a handful of weaving suppliers, you must rely on the internet for all your weaving needs.  No problem.  We are a computer savvy group and you can find it quickly and have it shipped right to your door.  Back in my day, we bought weaving yarns on cones.  Big cones.  We bought by the pound.  You had a stash automatically because there were always leftovers on the cone.  The current crop of weavers who have come to the dark side via knitting have so many yarn choices that I can’t even begin to sort out the possibilities, but mostly they buy by the project, the way they might have as knitters.   As a matter of fact, many of the projects in Handwoven magazine are now available as complete kits through the Interweave Press Store; yarns pre-measured with no leftovers for stash building.

Every morning when I get up, I check my email on my phone to see if there is anything urgent that needs my immediate attention, and delete the junk.  Then I switch over to Facebook and scroll through the newsfeed.  I have a lot of textile friends from all over the world.  I actually don’t know many of them personally, but if they are friends with a couple dozen other fibery people I know, I add them to the list. Every morning I smile as I look through the latest projects and interesting weave structures and use of materials that they have posted.  There are Facebook pages for weaving, inkle weaving, four shaft weaving, eight shaft weaving, Strickler in Color (Carol Strickler’s well loved tome of eight shaft drafts) and a bunch more I belong to, where color and texture just jump off the screen.  The thing is, I can’t touch any of it.  Fiber is such a tactile medium that when one happens on another weaver or fiber enthusiast, say like at a conference, the first connection is to touch.  No words necessary.  That is all being replaced by visuals with no touching, but beautiful all the same.  And I can see textiles from around the world; all from my warm bed using my cell phone app.

What I especially love are the comments.  Usually, there are 127 “likes” followed by a number of, “Gorgeous”, “Just Beautiful”, “Amazing Colors”…  and then the questions start.  Back in the day, the first questions that were usually asked once one handled the textile (usually while on someone else’s body) were about fiber content, and how many shafts.  The shaft thing is still an important question, because so many new weavers are working on a rigid heddle loom (which is essentially two shafts).  The options for structures in Strickler’s book just aren’t there.

But now, there is a new first question being asked that completely blows me away.

I’ve been weaving since the 1970’s.  Weaving yarns back then were limited; mostly what came from Lily Mills, Maypole, Maysville, Robin and Russ, and some of the knitting yarns that were put up on cones. And lots of mill ends.  Silk City Fibers revolutionized the use of rayons and blends in handweaving yarns back in the early 1980’s, Maureen and David pounded the pavement of the craft fairs in the northeast showing samples of their yarns to all the weavers in their booths.  There have been many pioneers in the handweaving world in the last couple of decades, who have changed the way we think about handweaving and its purpose, process, and product.  Some have written books, some have invented weaving software, some have published magazines, both digital and print, some have pushed the limits of what a hand loom can do, some have started social media sites and spent countless hours moderating them, and some have blazed trails in the teaching world, especially in the new digital formats.

One of those trailblazers is Kathrin Weber of Blazing Shuttles.  I only really began to pay attention to Kathrin’s work a few years ago, when a flurry of Facebook sites popped up involving her, her hand dyed warps, or her students’ work.  She maintains a lot of Facebook pages, and I’m most entertained by the ones that show those who have purchased her hand dyed warps and what they have done with them.  You see, back in my day, purchasing your pre-wound warp from someone was not even part of the weaving lexicon.  You bought yarn.  You wound a warp. You wove it off.  You showed it at a guild meeting.  End of story.  If you were really really good, you entered it into an exhibit at the local weaving conference.  And if you were really really really good, you entered it at Convergence.

So the upshot here, is Kathrin dyes warps, and sells them.  Her warps are all over the internet.  The fabrics produced from those warps are knock your socks off.  She teaches her students to blend them, reverse them, use every kind of structure imaginable, and new weavers and old weavers are collecting Blazing Shuttles warps like the world is ending and there won’t be anymore yarn left.

So now, we have a new first question that gets posted when I put up a photo on Facebook that confused me at first until I realized that the times, they are a-changin’.  We live in a global world, where everything you make can be documented step by step, other weavers can get excited about what you do, you can share knowledge and blaze those trails holding hands, or shuttles as it were, even if you live continents away and speak different languages.  And you can buy warps.  Pre-wound.  Pre-dyed.  In all kinds of fibers.

And here is the fabric I started a year and a half ago, as documented by this blog post.  And to all of those on Facebook who asked that first question, “Whose warp is it?”  It is mine.  All mine.  I dyed it.  There are two separate warps, mostly rayon.  They are blended and a dark hunter green rayon bouclé was added for definition between the warps.  It washed up beautifully.  It is soft and drapey, and I can’t wait to make something with it. Probably multiple things.  Of course, like all my fabrics, it does need to age.  I’ll eventually figure out what to do with it.

Yardage Yardage2

I’ve been dyeing warps this way since 2005 when Sarah Goodman stole me away after a NEWS conference to her studio in NH and taught me how to dye with MX dyes.  You can see some of the other warps I’ve dyed made up into garments here.

Stay tuned…

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Marilyn
Marilyn
February 17, 2016 6:37 am

Of course it’s yours, Daryl…but I am sure, many assumed as I did, that you had succumbed to Kathryn’s spell. And for those of us who don’t dye but love color and painted warps she is a godsend! Your success with the dark boucle and the narrow stripes has inspired me to reduce my Blazing Shuttles stash by two. Thank you.

Randi Rewoldt
Randi Rewoldt
February 17, 2016 7:45 am

It took me some time to figure out what that question meant on many FB posts! You took me through my history of weaving.
I love your fabric – rich color and those stripes are beautiful!

Jane Greer
Jane Greer
February 17, 2016 8:14 am

As a new weaver- only 2 years, I have been following your garments online. My desire was to weave fabric for my own garments and the colors and patterns of your weavings has inspired me to continue even at my most frustrated point. Kathrins warps and workshops have been a godsend for me just because I have been a self taught weaver and being able to learn how to split warps and flip, etc. has cut off a lot of the learning curve. She also taught me how to dye in one of her workshops so that now I can… Read more »

Candiss Cole-Footitt
February 17, 2016 9:48 am

I can’t imagine giving up the warp dyeing to someone else. But then, I’ve been right beside you all these years. I’m glad there are pre-dyed warps for those who either don’t want to dye warps or don’t feel comfortable doing it. But to give up that part of the process for me would be like having someone else control my direction from the beginning. I am like you. I pride myself on the fact that I am still involved in every part of the garment. From the choosing of the yarns, the dyes, the weave structure, the fulling, checking… Read more »

Jenny
Jenny
February 17, 2016 10:24 am

I am with you and Candiss. Having started weaving in “way-back-when”….I had to teach myself to wind warp before tackling teaching myself to weave. A very slow process with many hair raising adventures. I’m sure it “built character” but I wouldn’t wish it on anyone. That said….for me a major portion of the excitement and adventure in weaving is the stash digging, selecting, dyeing et.c. The actual weaving can seem like dessert at the end of a great meal. And that said….I have noticed quite a few new weavers getting very excited about learning about dyeing and yarn combinations. This… Read more »

Ginnie
Ginnie
February 17, 2016 10:47 am

Daryl,
This is fabulous yardage. You know I love everything you do. I have dabbled in dyeing my own warp using your scarf article in Handwoven a few years back, but I wonder if there is a chance you might publish a monograph on this method? I would love having that authoritative resource on my shelf to grab each time I am inspired to create colorful cloth. So, please? In your spare time?…

Ann Marie
Ann Marie
February 17, 2016 3:44 pm

Great post and really interesting to note the changes of practice in time. Since I have returned to tapestry weaving, the internet has been full of amazing surprises and the weird and nostalgic resurgence of “bohemian” tapestry. That usually means a “70’s look” lots of fringe and lots of roving used as weft for soumak. Much of it is really bad (IMHO), but appears to have a market (?) and there there seems to be a good number of young people taking frame loom tapestry classes in Brooklyn. Suddenly I’m wondering if I have a second career teaching tapestry techniques… Read more »

Ann Miller
Ann Miller
February 17, 2016 8:45 pm

Weaving up someone else’s warp is like buying a ready made meal from the supemarket where all that’s left to do is heat it up.

And ditto Ann Marie.

Susan
Susan
February 17, 2016 9:13 pm

Yes, interesting. Guess I am an old stick-in-the-mud 🙂 I prefer linen in it’s natural states. Having said that I have a 2ply natural linen on the loom and am not sure if I am going with Lindsey/woolsey (with a muted blue) or some saori with every hand spun scrap I can find.
I like your work and am always impressed with the results.

Elizabeth E
Elizabeth E
February 17, 2016 11:36 pm

OMG gorgeous. Envy here, but persistent in The Old Ways despite being so much newer among weavers and admirers of your work. You never cease to inspire me, and I aspire to dye was well as weave – even if I never hold a candle to you.

Ann D
Ann D
February 18, 2016 9:49 am

The same thing is happening in the spinning world. When I started 30+ years ago, it was assumed that you began by tracking down a fleece. Now many spinners have never processed their own fiber–the norm seems to be prepared roving, usually hand-painted. I have to admit that I do sometimes indulge in the latter (there are wonderful indie dyers out there) but I still love starting from scratch.

Stephanie
Stephanie
February 19, 2016 8:00 am

Daryl, That really is spectacular yardage! I will love to see where it goes. I think you should consider the ‘whose warp is that?’ question from different perspectives. When YOU say it is yours, no one would question that given your talent and experience. I can imagine some asker might be a little disappointed to hear they cannot buy their way to the same result. And, the asker may be so naive that they don’t realize they could do a warp themselves. I see your points on the way young folks are re-shaping ‘old timey’ ideas for todays world. Sometimes… Read more »

Nancy
Nancy
February 21, 2016 3:07 pm

I love the fabric and look forward to whatever your inspiration will be for what it will be when it grows up. Ginnie suggested a new monograph for dyeing in this method — maybe a new series of workshop for you and Kathrin to work together — she does the dyeing workshop you do the design the fabric to a finished something. Wow — that would be a spectacular couple of week workshops. Part 1 and Part 2 or however you figure it out — would be so much fun!!!!! Make sure my name is on your distribution list. Hugs,

Kathrin Weber
February 24, 2016 10:12 am

Wonderful conversation, Daryl and all! I appreciate the whole thought process. I have always loved your work, Daryl and I appreciate the positive comments here toward mine. I, too, started weaving back in the day. My business (Blazing Shuttles) began in 1980…starting right off participating in the ACC Shows in Baltimore, Sarasota, New Port, RI, and then Atlanta and Charlotte as years went by and they were established. When Facebook came around I started meeting weavers all around the world who were interested in my dye work from the posted photos of my woven pieces. Many were interested in working… Read more »

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